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[COLLAB] HOW TO CONTOUR && HIGHLIGHT

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Monday, June 06, 2016

Today I am going to show and explain to you how I contour. But first, what is contouring? "Contouring is giving shape to an area of the face and enhancing the facial structure through makeup," says Beau Nelson, Kristen Stewart's longtime makeup artist. "It's not supposed to be noticeable—just a subtle definition." It is a technique previously reserved for runway models and fancy photo shoots and now it is becoming a part of many girls' daily routines.

What will you need? Because the main thing of contouring is defining the natural shadows on the face, you will need a darker pressed powder. You need to find something that creates the illusion of an actual shadow, which typically has tones of beige, brown, taupe, and grey. The main rule is - never use shimmery products, everything shiny is a no-no! The powder you are using has to be matt and only two or three shades darker than your skin tone. 



Great product for contouring is Makeup Revolution All About Bronze palette. It has eight highly pigmented shades and they are a combination of matts and shimmers. You can get the palette at ličila.si. One of my favourites is also Rimmel Natural Bronzer in the shade Sun Kissed which has an SPF 15 and is waterproof, and Wet n Wild Color Icon Bronzer in the shade Bikini Contest which also has an SPF 15 - which is always good. The last thing you need is a brush. If you are just starting with contouring, you can use the basic blending brush and a blush brush for blending everything out. Once you are a pro at this you can buy a brush made especially for contouring. The most popular one is MAC #217 - and also one of the expensive ones. I usually use the Real Techniques Flat Contour #301 brush.

We have all that we need, now let's talk technic. The easiest way to describe contouring is: swipe the powder gently on the part of the face, where the natural shadow falls. For better presentation I marked all this places on the picture. First, you have to find the hollows of your cheeks. You can do that by running your fingers under the cheekbones and find the gap. The second way is that you make a fish face, and find the hollows of your cheeks that way. Now you have two straight lines on your face - but don't worry. We have to blend them. Always blend upwards from the line you made. That way you emphasise the shadow and make your face look slimmer. If you blend downwards, you will end with muddy looking face and no definition. The next place is forehead. Put the shadow under your hair line and a little bit down along the sides of your face. That way you make your forehead look smaller and more defined. Nose contouring is the hardest to do. If you are just starting, I recommend applying the powder with your fingers and blend it as you go. The closer together you make the lines, the smaller your nose will appear. The only part left is the chin and a little under your bottom lip. If your chin is starting to droop a little, just sweep a touch of contour powder under the jaw line to instantly hide any saggy bits and look younger.


This are the basics of contouring. You will need a lot of practice, practice and practice to know what suits your face the most. The application is different among all the face shapes as you can see on the picture. This can also help you find the best way to contour your own face - look at the parts marked with the dark brown colour. 

When you become a pro at contouring, you can check out the cream contouring technic. Here we use cream products instead of pressed powders. But about that in one of my next posts.

And because you can't have the finished look without highlighting your face as well, my fellow blogger Marta shared her tips here! Also check out her Twitter and Instagram and show her some love!


Have fun with playing around with contouring and highlighting!


Danes ti bom pokazala in razložila kaj pomeni contouring oziroma senčenje obraza. Contouring je poudarjanje oblik in naravnih senc na obrazu. Je nežna oblika senčenja obraza, ki mora biti čim manj opazna. Dolgo časa je bil ta makeup trik rezerviran za manekenke in fotografe, sedaj pa postaja rutinski makeup korak vsake ženske.

Kaj pa produkti? Ker gre pri 'contouringu' za poudarjanje naravnih potez obraza, boš za to potrebovala temnejši puder v prahu. Ker želimo doseči iluzijo naravne sence izbiraj med bež, rjavimi, taupe in sivimi toni. Najpomembnejše pravilo pa je, da nikoli ne uporabljaš izdelkov z dodanim sijajem! Puder s katerim senčiš mora biti matt in le za dva do tri odtenke temnejši od tvoje kože.


Super izdelek za senčenje je Makeup Revolution paleta All About Bronze. Vsebuje osem visoko pigmentiranih odtenkov, ki so matt ali sijoči - tako imaš na enem mestu zbrane vse stvari ki jih potrebuješ za osvetljevanje in senčenje obraza. Paletko lahko kupiš na spletni strani ličila.si. Jaz rada posežem tudi po Rimmel Natural Bronzer v odtenku Sun Kissed, ki ima zaščitni faktor in je vodoodporen in po Wet n Wild Color Icon Bronzer v odtenku Bikini Contest, ki ima prav tako zaščitni faktor - kar je vedno prednost. Zadnja stvar ki jo boš potrebovala je čopič. Najboljši je manjši čopič, saj moraš biti pri senčenju natančna. Za začetek lahko uporabiš kar klasični čopič za zabrisovanje (blending brush) in čopič za nanos rdečila za končni zabris robov. Ko boš osvojila tehniko pa lahko najdeš ogromno čopičev ki so namenjeni ravno senčenju. Najbolj popularen je MAC #127 - ki pa je prav tako med dražjimi izbirami. Jaz največkrat posežem po Real Techniques Flat Contour #301 čopiču.

 Predpriprave so končane sedaj pa k tehniki. 'Contouring' najlažje opišem tako: puder na rahlo nanesem tja, kamor na obraz pada naravna senca. Za lažjo predstavo sem na spodnji sliki označila mesta kamor po navadi nanašamo 'Contour'. Najprej nanesi pigment pod linijo svojih ličnic - tam kjer je tvoj obraz najbolj 'votel'. Najlažje si boš pomagala tako, da lica potegneš navznoter (narediš "fish face" - ribico), ali pa globel pod ličnicami najdeš s prsti. Sedaj imaš na obrazu narisani dve ravni črti - naj te ne skrbi. Naslednje pride na vrsto zabrisovanje. Vedno zabrisuj po obrazu navzgor. Če boš pigment zabrisala nižje od 'črte', senčenje ne bo imelo nobenega efekta tvoj obraz pa bo izgledal 'umazan.' Tako, naslednje mesto je čelo. Z večjim čopičem pigment rahlo zabriši pod linijo tvojih las. Na ta način boš ustvarila videz nižjega in bolj strukturiranega čela. Med zabrisovanjem senčko rahlo nanesi tudi ob strani nad ušesi. Za senčenje nosu boš potrebovala največ vaje. Priporočam da na začetku senčko tja nanašaš s prsti. Pigment rahlo potegni vzdolž nosu na obeh straneh, in linijo zaključi na konici nosu. Pazi, da je nanos res rahel - drugače bo tvoj nos izgledal čisto drugačne barve kot preostanek tvojega obraza. Bolj skupaj kot bosta liniji, bolj ozek bo izgledal tvoj nos. Za konec senčko nanesi še na spodnji levi in desni rob brade, in malo pod ustnico. Če želiš še bolj poudariti svojo čeljust, lahko pigment naneseš tudi pod brado - na ta način skriješ podbradek in zožaš obraz.


Tako, to so osnovne smernice nanašanja 'contouringa'. Ker pa je vsak obraz drugačen boš potrebovala veliko vaje, vaje in še enkrat vaje, da boš lahko točno vedela kje in kako ti senčenje najbolj pristoji. Nanašanje se seveda razlikuje tudi med oblikami obrazov. Na spodnji sliki lahko vidiš primere oblik obrazov in mesto senčenja - upoštevaj predele označene s temno rjavo barvo.
Ko boš osvojila osnovno tehniko senčenja, lahko svoje znanje nadgradiš še s kremnim senčenjem (cream contouring). Pri tej tehniki se namesto pudra v prahu uporabljajo tekoči produkti. O tem pa v kakšni izmed naslednjih objav.

Ker pa senčenje ni popolno brez osvetljevanja obraza, je ena izmed mojih najljubših blogerk Marta delila svoje trike osvetjevanja obraza tukaj! Sledi ji tudi na Twitter-ju in Instagram-u!


Uživaj pri igranju z ličili, upam da čim prej osvojiš tehniko senčenja obraza!


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